Sunday, July 12, 2009

En Casa Latina

This Saturday I started volunteering at Casa Latina, a nonprofit community center in south Seattle which serves the Hispanic immigrant population with English classes, a free clinic, and most importantly, a call center for day jobs. The Casa's basic model of empowerment is to provide immigrants with a community that speaks their language (including Hispanic and non-Hispanic volunteers - I've never met so many Americans fluent in Spanish in one place before, outside of Peru), equips them with education or resources, and gives them access to day-labor that will hopefully lead to more work and enough regular clients (ie employers who call them back on a regular basis) that they can support themselves and their families without having to go through the Casa's day worker program anymore.

It's a pretty good idea - using a trustworthy organization to obtain work and advocate for unprotected workers - except that day labor is not exactly recession-proof. This Saturday we only had about 5 phone calls; normally Saturday is the busiest day of the week, with employment for most of the 30-40 workers who come in early every morning to wait for work. According to one of the staff I talked to, the workers themselves are no longer just undocumented recent arrivals, but people who've been here for years, had jobs, and lost them. A lot of them have also migrated north from California after that state's economy took a nosedive. (Washington is doing slightly better.)

I will be working every other Saturday morning as a day work dispatcher. Every Friday, workers go flyer neighborhoods offering services from weeding to painting to building; phone calls come in asking for 2 people to come over to help with an all-day move, or for one worker for a few hours to do some gardening. Once I take down the info, if they've requested a drop-off I reserve the Casa's van to transport the worker to the job, and then I file the job under the correct date so that it can be "dispatched" from whatever pool of workers is there that day. Work is usually granted by raffle unless specific skills are needed.

The worker's waiting area is a little warehouse just over from the office building where we take calls. This Saturday it also featured stations for getting your blood pressure checked (by UW med students), your hair cut (by an enterprising new member of the Casa's women's program), or getting a snack or a 25 cent cup of instant coffee (from a "tienda" that is formally run by the women's program). Even on a slow day with little work, there was at least a spirit of camaraderie, and it feels great to be in a Spanish-speaking environment again. I even met two Peruvians, one of them a half-Chinese guy from Chiclayo who was there as a medical volunteer, not a day worker.

I hope to report more as I get to know the immigrant community here.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Things I love, and don't love, about living in Seattle

I moved here a few months ago. Now that I'm telecommuting I can live anywhere, and I decided it was time to reconnect with my West Coast roots. However, I'm new to Seattle, and here's what I've found so far:

Things I enjoy:
  • Fewer people. You can actually get a table at Barnes & Noble! The rents are lower, there's room on the sidewalk, and you feel like you can breathe.
  • Nature. Even while driving the freeways, your view is of water and trees.
  • Summer weather. I don't think I've had such a long stretch of sunny, dry days in the 60's and 70's since growing up in Southern California.
  • Food. Great seafood, great produce, and if you ever get a chance, try something called a marionberry pie...
  • Good music. Haven't seen any great live bands yet, but even the radio stations are head and shoulders above what I've heard in other towns.
  • Relaxed fashion. People are very dressed down. I feel right at home in jeans and sweaters.
  • Eco-friendliness, &
  • Social justice. After living in Peru for a year, it's nice to live in a place that is conscious of eating local, buying & selling used stuff, and supporting causes around the world.
  • Great walkable neighborhoods. Fremont, Wallingford, Capitol Hill, Greenwood... there's an endless list of little neighborhoods that feel like the Village or Cobble Hill.
  • Proximity to Vancouver, Portland, and California.
  • Seattle Public Library. Tons of people use it, and it's got everything, so you literally almost never have to buy a book again.

Things I don't:
  • The weather during the rest of the year. I got a taste in March and April, and it was pretty demoralizing to be cold and wet all the time.
  • The homogeneity. Seattle ain't New York.
  • Traffic. Seattle has very few main arteries, and they are full of bottlenecks.
  • Public transit. Again, Seattle ain't New York.
  • Distance from everywhere but the West Coast.
  • Lack of directness. There is an odd awkwardness to social interactions here; people are friendly, but afraid to disagree with each other. For this New Yorker, this is a real shame; you learn so much more about people and life when everyone feels free to disagree and still be friends.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Forget giving a man a fish - give him broadband

One of the exciting trends I observed in Peru was that while the country might be underdeveloped in terms of roads, running water and electricity, young people in cities that had even partial coverage were already pretty wired. You might not own a watch or a refrigerator, and you might make only a few dollars a day, but you could easily have a cellphone, an email address, and be on a social network. Internet and mobile phone technology allow you to skip entire stages of industrialization, saving tons of time and money.

This article's title basically says it all:

East Africa gets broadband: It may make life easier and cheaper | The Economist

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Sunday, May 03, 2009

Thoughts on the Financial Crisis

Last week, while in New York for work, I went to an event hosted by the Center for Faith & Work at Redeemer Presbyterian Church. The speakers were Pastor Tim Keller and Julian Robertson of Tiger Management, who I hadn't heard of before but apparently is a titan in finance, one of the inventors of the hedge fund or something like that.

It was basically a mini-panel discussion and Q&A about the financial crisis and what the Christian perspective on it is. They covered all the hot topics from executive compensation to gov't regulation. A few of the highlights:
  • On how long the crisis will last. Julian: "for many, many years." 'Nuff said.
  • On how to get out of it. Julian again: Making our education system more competitive. He spoke of the need to re-structure education and lessen the power of teachers' unions.
  • On the Wall Street types who've lost their jobs. Both Tim & Julian felt that too many young people had gone into finance drawn by the money & glamour, and it was probably a good thing that from now on the talent would be distributed across more industries and more cities. (Tim also gave a plug for going to work for a non-profit or school, which need ppl with finance & administration skills.)
  • On government regulation. Both worried that the gov't was overstepping its bounds. Julian suggested we all tighten our belts and suffer through a sharper, more painful downturn without gov't spending or "more leveraging" to speed up the recovery. Tim, in typically balanced fashion, talked about the role of the family, the church or social institution, the gov't, and private enterprise, and how each of those had its role to play. He also warned of trusting either gov't OR business too much, since both are made up of people and therefore are corruptible. He also brought up the very interesting example of Deut. 24:6, "Do not take a pair of millstones—not even the upper one—as security for a debt, because that would be taking a man's livelihood as security," as an example of the kind of gov't regulation that IS needed to prevent a lender from driving a borrower into financial ruin.
  • On the bailouts. Julian pretty much affirmed that the bailout of AIG and other "too big to fail" institutions may have been necessary. Tim observed that bailouts are better than slavery! (Slavery, or indentured servitude, was how people worked off their debts in the ancient Middle East, hence its mentions in the Bible.)
  • On what the Bible has to say about debt and over-leveraging. Tim said basically all the major religions are extremely cautious or negative on money-lending & indebtedness, and recommend paying down your debt and living within your means.
  • On how to get through the financial crisis. Both Tim & Julian affirmed that family & friends are what's really important at the end of the day, not career or income. Tim observed that in all his years as a minister, having visited many deathbeds, no one had ever told him, "I wish I spent more time at the office."

I dug this postcard for the event.

Sunday, April 05, 2009

Work Less, Pay Less

Two things I said years ago, half-jokingly, are now coming true.

When I left New York, I told some of my friends that I would come back when the economy tanked, when people left the city, rents fell, crime rose – basically, when it returned to what it was before it priced people like me out.

The other thing I started saying a few years ago, as I compared my salary and hours to that of my friends, was that I'd rather work less and make less. Even though I made half the salary of many of my friends in finance or law, I felt I was getting a fair deal, because I had time to maintain friendships, be active in my church, volunteer, etc. while they pretty much lived at work.

Well, I can't afford to move back yet, but NYC is definitely undergoing some major changes, and the silver lining is that rents are officially falling! (Of course it will take a long time for those prices to fall to earth - see previous post.) Also, I'm now working part-time (about 25-30 hrs/week) – I tell people I have a "job of the future," off-site, flex hours and no benefits – and I'm making even less than I used to!

I'm actually saving more, though, since life also costs a lot less these days. More on my new living situation in a future post...

Friday, February 20, 2009

Cost of living and who's really "rich"

Since leaving New York nearly two years ago, I've heard several offhand comments made by people from other parts of the country about how wealthy New Yorkers are, as if they're on a completely different level than ordinary Americans. This has left me scratching my head. Are they really?

After living in New York City for nearly ten years, four of them as a college student and the other six in publishing (an infamously low-paid industry), I got used to Craig's List rentals in pre-war buildings, walkups, trash, rats, and hauling groceries or laundry home on foot every week. I jostled through crowded sidewalks and subways filled with a mix of rich and poor people, but I would venture to say there were more poor.

New York has its glamour, it's true. You do see people wearing all-designer wardrobes, and power lunching at fancy restaurants, and making 5 or 6-figure bonuses.

However, even corporate lawyers are lucky to live in a decent-sized one-bedroom apartment (say 1200 sq. ft.) in Manhattan. And the highest paid work very hard; one first-year investment banker told me that if you divided his salary by the number of hours he was working, he was making a blue-collar hourly wage, which I have no doubt is true. I've often thought New York City is a place where the rich paradoxically live like the poor.

Meanwhile most of the people in my world – students, starving artists, low-level corporate drones – lived in sketchy neighborhoods, often with sketchy neighbors, and used recycled Ikea furniture in our closet-sized rooms. We ate at cheap ethnic dives and only saw Broadway shows with $20 lotteries. We couldn't afford to take cabs except in case of emergency. We didn't entertain much because we didn't have room, or lived too far out in the boroughs, or lived in a share with tenuous roommate relationships.

By contrast, so many people in Houston drive SUV's and live in big houses with huge flat-screen TV's that I can only assume this is attainable on a middle-class salary. How do you compare wealth when the cost of living is so different?

The conundrum has only gotten more interesting since coming back from Peru. On the one hand, the workaholic lifestyle and preoccupation with career in New York feels very divorced from the reality of billions who barely scrape by every day. On the other hand, the isolation afforded by the low cost of living (and good economy) in Texas, with each family comfortably ensconced in a big house with an entertainment system and a two-car garage, is just so... comfortable, so self-sufficient, which is the opposite of poverty too.

So I guess what I'm trying to say is, it's easy to look at someone else and say, "They have it so much better than I do." And assume that we're the only ones who are struggling. The truth is, if you live in America and make a middle-class salary or higher, you're pretty fortunate. No matter where you live.

And if you're laid off or otherwise hurting right now, you might want to consider moving somewhere with a lower cost of living.

Saturday, January 31, 2009

¡Viva la globalización!

Today a new HEB Mart opened in Missouri City, Texas, about 20 min. from my house. Over the years I've noticed an increasing number of American grocery stores have an "International Foods" aisle, with a small assortment of couscous, teriyaki sauce and basmati rice. However this gigantic supermarket, with a very ethnically diverse clientele, actually has 3-4 shelves just for products from South America!

I have been looking for ají, i.e. chili peppers from Peru used to season everything from rice to chicken to vegetables, ever since I got back from Peru. Today I was overjoyed to find them at last...

Hooray, or as they say in Peru, "ji ji... ra!"


"Ají Amarillo, Product of Peru"

Inca Kola, national soft drink of Peru...

Friday, January 23, 2009

Slumdog Millionaire and the Real "Street Kids"

Yesterday the Academy Award nominations were announced, and Slumdog Millionaire, the sleeper hit filmed in the slums of Mumbai, India, received 10 nominations. I never thought I'd see the day that a film about street kids - portrayed with both harsh realism and fairy-tale redemption - would become a mainstream hit.

Having known real "street kids", and kept in touch with some of them into adulthood (they too are on Facebook!), I loved the characters of Jamal and Latika, but did not find them entirely convincing. Jamal is wide-eyed and innocent, a pure soul, which is not what I've seen in kids who've been orphaned and on the streets since the age of seven. The movie makes a decent argument that his more wily brother has shielded and protected him for most of his life, but I doubt he could have shielded him entirely. The complete lack of sexual exploitation or drug use was also hard to believe, but their manipulation by ganglords using them to beg for money completely resonated with what I've seen and heard abroad. I hope those scenes will make Westerners traveling to 3rd world countries think twice before giving begging children money instead of food or clothing - you're essentially giving cash to gangsters.

The character that stood out for me the most is Salim, the older brother. A case could be made for him being either the hero or the villain of the story. He does some evil, heartless things, sometimes to protect himself and his brother, sometimes out of naked ambition, always in order to survive and climb the food chain. Something a gangster told him about being a big man has stuck with him since he was a little boy. With any semblance of a normal childhood removed, he has learned to operate on a different playing field. He is the most like the street kids I've come to know. Kids who've had terrible things done to them, and done terrible things to others, usually in that order. Kids who have become bad news, but on some level never forget the difference between right and wrong, between what was supposed to be and what happened instead. For all of his bad deeds, Salim makes sure Jamal is able to escape to a better life.

Some of the real kids I've met are brooding, depressed types, others brash and mischievous. Some are extremely needy for love and attention; others are suspicious and distant. Some have been able to hold down jobs since reaching adulthood, and others have not. All are human beings who've had to survive incredible circumstances, and deserve a chance to have their stories told.

a young Jamal still believes that life is beautiful

Friday, January 09, 2009

An Atheist's Perspective on Missionaries

Some of my friends have asked me, based on my personal experience, whether missionaries in Peru or other parts of the world are seen as imposing their Western Christian values on other parts of the world. While there is no doubt that this has happened in the past, and in some cases continues in the present, I have found in my personal experience in Mexico, Peru & Kenya, the reputation of Christian missionaries is often the opposite; when I told people I was a Christian or a missionary, they would usually brighten, open up, even increase their trust in me. I know in Latin America and other regions that are rife with corrupt institutions, the church and its representatives are more likely than gov't or private sectors to care for the poor, provide basic services like schools and clinics, and to treat people of low social standing as "brothers" and equals.

Here's a fascinating article written by a self-professed atheist, which speaks to the profound sense of empowerment and liberation that Christian theology can bring to the disenfranchised.

***

December 27, 2008
As an atheist, I truly believe Africa needs God
Missionaries, not aid money, are the solution to Africa's biggest problem - the crushing passivity of the people's mindset

by Matthew Parris

Before Christmas I returned, after 45 years, to the country that as a boy I knew as Nyasaland. Today it's Malawi, and The Times Christmas Appeal includes a small British charity working there. Pump Aid helps rural communities to install a simple pump, letting people keep their village wells sealed and clean. I went to see this work.

It inspired me, renewing my flagging faith in development charities. But travelling in Malawi refreshed another belief, too: one I've been trying to banish all my life, but an observation I've been unable to avoid since my African childhood. It confounds my ideological beliefs, stubbornly refuses to fit my world view, and has embarrassed my growing belief that there is no God.

Now a confirmed atheist, I've become convinced of the enormous contribution that Christian evangelism makes in Africa: sharply distinct from the work of secular NGOs, government projects and international aid efforts. These alone will not do. Education and training alone will not do. In Africa Christianity changes people's hearts. It brings a spiritual transformation. The rebirth is real. The change is good.

I used to avoid this truth by applauding - as you can - the practical work of mission churches in Africa. It's a pity, I would say, that salvation is part of the package, but Christians black and white, working in Africa, do heal the sick, do teach people to read and write; and only the severest kind of secularist could see a mission hospital or school and say the world would be better without it. I would allow that if faith was needed to motivate missionaries to help, then, fine: but what counted was the help, not the faith.

But this doesn't fit the facts. Faith does more than support the missionary; it is also transferred to his flock. This is the effect that matters so immensely, and which I cannot help observing.

First, then, the observation. We had friends who were missionaries, and as a child I stayed often with them; I also stayed, alone with my little brother, in a traditional rural African village. In the city we had working for us Africans who had converted and were strong believers. The Christians were always different. Far from having cowed or confined its converts, their faith appeared to have liberated and relaxed them. There was a liveliness, a curiosity, an engagement with the world - a directness in their dealings with others - that seemed to be missing in traditional African life. They stood tall.

At 24, travelling by land across the continent reinforced this impression. From Algiers to Niger, Nigeria, Cameroon and the Central African Republic, then right through the Congo to Rwanda, Tanzania and Kenya, four student friends and I drove our old Land Rover to Nairobi.

We slept under the stars, so it was important as we reached the more populated and lawless parts of the sub-Sahara that every day we find somewhere safe by nightfall. Often near a mission.

Whenever we entered a territory worked by missionaries, we had to acknowledge that something changed in the faces of the people we passed and spoke to: something in their eyes, the way they approached you direct, man-to-man, without looking down or away. They had not become more deferential towards strangers - in some ways less so - but more open.

This time in Malawi it was the same. I met no missionaries. You do not encounter missionaries in the lobbies of expensive hotels discussing development strategy documents, as you do with the big NGOs. But instead I noticed that a handful of the most impressive African members of the Pump Aid team (largely from Zimbabwe) were, privately, strong Christians. “Privately” because the charity is entirely secular and I never heard any of its team so much as mention religion while working in the villages. But I picked up the Christian references in our conversations. One, I saw, was studying a devotional textbook in the car. One, on Sunday, went off to church at dawn for a two-hour service.

It would suit me to believe that their honesty, diligence and optimism in their work was unconnected with personal faith. Their work was secular, but surely affected by what they were. What they were was, in turn, influenced by a conception of man's place in the Universe that Christianity had taught.

There's long been a fashion among Western academic sociologists for placing tribal value systems within a ring fence, beyond critiques founded in our own culture: “theirs” and therefore best for “them”; authentic and of intrinsically equal worth to ours.

I don't follow this. I observe that tribal belief is no more peaceable than ours; and that it suppresses individuality. People think collectively; first in terms of the community, extended family and tribe. This rural-traditional mindset feeds into the “big man” and gangster politics of the African city: the exaggerated respect for a swaggering leader, and the (literal) inability to understand the whole idea of loyal opposition.

Anxiety - fear of evil spirits, of ancestors, of nature and the wild, of a tribal hierarchy, of quite everyday things - strikes deep into the whole structure of rural African thought. Every man has his place and, call it fear or respect, a great weight grinds down the individual spirit, stunting curiosity. People won't take the initiative, won't take things into their own hands or on their own shoulders.

How can I, as someone with a foot in both camps, explain? When the philosophical tourist moves from one world view to another he finds - at the very moment of passing into the new - that he loses the language to describe the landscape to the old. But let me try an example: the answer given by Sir Edmund Hillary to the question: Why climb the mountain? “Because it's there,” he said.

To the rural African mind, this is an explanation of why one would not climb the mountain. It's... well, there. Just there. Why interfere? Nothing to be done about it, or with it. Hillary's further explanation - that nobody else had climbed it - would stand as a second reason for passivity.

Christianity, post-Reformation and post-Luther, with its teaching of a direct, personal, two-way link between the individual and God, unmediated by the collective, and unsubordinate to any other human being, smashes straight through the philosphical/spiritual framework I've just described. It offers something to hold on to to those anxious to cast off a crushing tribal groupthink. That is why and how it liberates.

Those who want Africa to walk tall amid 21st-century global competition must not kid themselves that providing the material means or even the knowhow that accompanies what we call development will make the change. A whole belief system must first be supplanted.

And I'm afraid it has to be supplanted by another. Removing Christian evangelism from the African equation may leave the continent at the mercy of a malign fusion of Nike, the witch doctor, the mobile phone and the machete.